Anthony, Author at Lawn Solutions Australia - Page 2 of 11

Author: Anthony

How To Lay Turf Part 1: Measuring

Posted on by Anthony

Not sure how much turf you need?

Laying turf doesn’t have to be hard – you just have to get the preparation right and your lawn will be looking amazing in no time. Our simple steps and online turf area calculator makes it easy! It is important that you take care to be accurate.

How to calculate how much turf you need

  1. Get a piece of paper and sketch out the areas to be turfed.
  2. Break up the areas into basic shapes such as squares, rectangles and circles. See our full list below.
  3. Measure each area and write down your measurements.
  4. Calculate how many square metres are in each area and add the totals together. You can use our online turf area calculator below, or see further down how to calculate these manually using some easy formula.
  5. Order extra! For simple areas like a rectangle, order 5% extra. For more complex irregular areas, order 10% extra. This will allow for any slight miscalculations and also the odd roll or slab in poor condition that you sometimes get. It’s better to have some turf left over than run out.
  6. Calculate the volume of turf underlay that you need; there is some helpful information on how to do this further down this page.
  7. Find your local turf supplier here

Online turf area calculator

Once you have measured each part of your lawn, our online turf area calculator will calculate the areas for you and total them together.

Calculating the area of different shaped areas manually

Once you have measured each part of your lawn, you can calculate the area of each shape manually using these easy formula, not much beyond the simple arithmetic and geometry you probably learned at primary school. Although most of the necessary calculations are generally straightforward, it is nevertheless important that you take care to be accurate. Read on to see how to calculate even the most difficult of shapes.

Square

How to lay turf - measuring squares of lawn

Measure one side of the square, then multiply it by itself (area = s x s)

Example – If the width of the square is 4 metres: 4m x 4m = 16m2

Rectangle or oblong

How to lay turf - measuring rectangle lawns

Measure the height and width of the square, then multiply them together (area = w x h)

Example – If the height is 4 metres and the width is 6 metres: 4m x 6m = 24m2

Triangle

How to lay turf - measuring triangle lawns

Measure the height and base, then multiply the height by half of the base (area = ½b x h)

Example – If the height is 9 metres and the base is 10 metres: 9m x 5m = 45m2

Parallelogram

How to lay turf - measuring parallelograms

Measure the height and base, then multiply together (area = b x h)

Example – If the height is 5 metres and the base is 8 metres: 5m x 8m = 40m2

Trapezoid

How to lay turf - measuring trapezoids

Measure the height and the top and bottom edges. Add the top and bottom edges together (b1 + b2). Divide this figure by 2. Multiple by the height. (area = ½ (b1 + b2) x h)

Example – If the top edge (b1) is 5 metres and the bottom edge (b2) is 9 metres, and height is 6 metres: 5m + 9m = 14m. 14 ÷ 2 = 7.   7 x 6 = 42m2

Circle

How to lay turf - measuring circles of lawn

d = diameter, r = radius Measure the diameter of the circle, then divide this by two to calculate the radius. Multiply the radius by itself, then multiply the total by 3.14. (area = r x r x 3.14) Example – If the diameter is 12 metres, the radius will be 6 metres; multiply 6 metres by 6 metres, then multiply the total by 3.14: 6 x 6 = 36. 36 x 3.14 = 113.04m2

Ellipse or oval

How to lay turf - measuring oval lawns

Measure the width and height of the oval, then divide each measurement by two to calculate r1 and r2 (area =r1 x r2 x 3.14). Example – If r1 is 3 metres and r2 is 5 metres: 3m x 5m = 15m. 15m x 3.14 = 47.1m2

Calculating the volume of turf underlay

Materials such as soil and sand are measured and ordered in cubic metres and tonnes. To calculate the volume of material required, first work out the area in square metres, and then multiply by the depth to get the cubic metres. Typically you might need 100mm or 150mm of turf underlay (0.1 or 0.15 metres).

Example 1 – You have a rectangle measuring 10m x 6m and need to add 100mm of turf underlay soil. 10m x 6m x 0.1m = 6m3.

Example 2 – You have a circular area with a diameter of 14 metres and a radius of 7 metres, needing 150mm of soil. The area is 7m x 7m x 3.14 = 153.86m2. The volume is 153.86m2 x 0.15m = 23.079m3, rounded down to 23m3.

You can order premium turf underlay from your local Lawn Solutions Australia turf grower, for delivery along with your turf.

Find your local turf supplier

Now you know how to measure, get ready for summer and get a quote.

How To Lay Turf Part 4: Aftercare

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Don’t let your new lawn dry out

You will need to keep your new lawn moist at all times. Watering 4 times a day in warm conditions is quite normal. An example schedule would be:

  • early morning
  • mid/late morning
  • late afternoon
  • early evening

You don’t need to flood your lawn, just be sure to keep the turf and immediate underlying soil moist. You must be systemic, ensuring you water all areas. Keep in mind that during hot conditions, especially if it is windy, the lawn will dry out very quickly and additional watering may be required. Your lawn will let you know if it is drying out by its appearance and behaviour. The leaf blades will start to curl, shrivel and dry out so you’ll know when it needs a drink.

Initial irrigation methods

Overhead irrigation

The best way to water is by overhead irrigation, in fact to establish a new lawn, overhead watering is the only way to go. Portable sprinklers attached to the end of a hose are cheap and efficient. Just move them around the lawn as required. A tap timer will ensure you don’t leave the water on for too long and waste water. An in-ground, pop-up irrigation system takes this a step further. This can be connected by a manual tap timer, or a computer controlled timer that is programmed to run as required. Hooking up a pop-up system to a rain water tank or using recycled water is the most environmentally friendly and cost effective method.

Grey Water

Grey water is the wastewater from washing machines, laundry tubs, baths, showers and wash basins. It does NOT include wastewater from the toilet, dishwasher or kitchen sink, as these can contain unwanted solids and potentially nasties. Grey water can be used on the garden and lawn by bucket or water re-use system. This is a good way to recycle your grey water, reduce pressure on grey water waste systems, save on valuable drinking water reserves as well as save money. If you want to use grey water be sure to use environmentally friendly, sustainable detergents that won’t harm your lawn. Before using grey water it is best to check with your local Council for advice as there may be regulations regarding the use of grey water in your area.

Underground Water

If you live in sand belts such as Perth underground water can be tapped into a bore or a spear. Contact your local Council to see if underground water is available in your area.

Water Restrictions

Always check the relevant water restrictions in your area as these vary greatly around the country. Your water supplier will have all the necessary information on their website. Also, your local turf supplier should have helpful advice on the local conditions and ways to use and save water.

On-going watering and creating a drought tolerant lawn

Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established. You can test for this by trying to gently lift a corner of a roll or slab, if it doesn’t lift easily, the roots have set into the soil. This is a good thing as it means your lawn is growing well.

Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering depending on the weather and the climate in your region. The idea is to get to a point where you water less frequently, but give the lawn a deep soaking when watering does occur. This encourages deep root systems and ultimately a more self sufficient and drought tolerant lawn. As the water drains through the soil, the roots seek the water out deeper in the soil rather than just hanging around near the surface, which is what will happen if you just give short, regular waterings. Educate your lawn to go the distance.

Drought tolerance one of the key characteristics of buffalo lawn, like Sir Walter. In many areas that receive fairly regular rain, you will almost never have to water a drought tolerant lawn at all, except during routine maintenance tasks like fertilising when you have to water the fertiliser in. During extended dry periods you may have to water your lawn more regularly to maintain a lush green look, but this is purely for cosmetic reasons.

Timing

The best time to water your garden is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening, when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. In these areas early morning is best.

Turf Installation & Initial Care – Best Practice Guidelines

Five Common Lawn Weeds – Identification and Treatment

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Does your lawn have weeds, but you’re not sure what they are and how to remove them? We take a look at some common lawn weeds that might be growing in your lawn and look at a few different options on how you can remove them.

Cudweed

Amochaeta galviceps

Lawn Weed – Cudweed

  • Flat, shiny, mid-green leaves with a rosette shape
  • Various small flowers on stems
  • Fibrous roots
  • Control – hand removal and spot spray herbicide
  • Difficult to kill due to glossy leaves
  • May need two or more sprays.

Winter Grass

Poa annua

winter grass

  • Is a low growing weed
  • Has soft, drooping green leaves
  • Grows in tufts with white seeds
  • Will start to appear in mid to late Autumn
  • Can stick around late winter or early Spring till the temperatures warm back up
  • Control – hand removal, pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides.

Bindii (jo-jo)

Soliva sessilis

Lawn Weeds Bindii

  • Possibly the most annoying lawn weed due to the pain caused by the seeds to bare feet
  • Finely dissected, small, fern like leaves, light green in colour
  • Flat, small compact rosettes
  • Small green flowers deep in leaf axis
  • Fine, fibrous roots
  • Small brown, flat seeds with sharp spines that hurt bare feet
  • Control – hand removal or selective Bindii herbicides in winter or early autumn before the plant sets seed
  • Easily managed if tended to early.

Creeping Oxalis

Oxalis corniculata

Lawn Weeds – Creeping Oxalis

  • Small, light green, clover like leaves on short petioles
  • Small, yellow, bell shaped flowers
  • Forms new roots wherever stems touch the ground, creeping under and through lawn
  • Thin tap-roots
  • Very difficult to remove as crown breaks off leaving roots for re-growth
  • Very invasive, nasty weed
  • Control – hand remove small plants
  • Dig out section of lawn
  • Herbicide for larger infestations.

Clover

Trifolium spp.

Lawn Weeds – Clover

  • Clover shaped, green leaves with with circular markings, on thin stems
  • Small white flowers, ball shaped on stems with leaves
  • Tap-roots off stolons
  • Is a weed in lawn but in other areas can be beneficial due to high nutritional value
  • Four leaved plants are very lucky, so don’t poison those!
  • Control – hand removal and selective herbicide.

Lawn Weed Treatment

Hand removal

Many small weeds many be carefully pulled out by hand, however you will need to make sure you have removed the roots. Using a weeding trowel or long handled, mechanical device and prizing around the roots will help ensure total removal. The bigger the weed, the bigger and stronger the roots. In some cases, a weed spray might be necessary.

Herbicides

For Cudweed, Bindii, Creeping Oxalis and Clover, you can use a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Amgrow Bin Die. These herbicides are both safe to use on Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, Sir Grange Zoysia, Eureka Kikuyu, and most other lawn types.

weed control

For Winter Grass, we recommend using a selective herbicide like Amgrow Winter Grass Killer (not suitable for Kikuyu, Rye, and Fescue lawns). This will remove any Winter Grass that is currently growing. We also recommend using a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert when the temperatures get cooler in your area to help prevent the winter grass from returning.

When using herbicides, remember to always follow manufacturer’s instructions on the pack.

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Turf Installation & Laying Services

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Turf installation – the easy way to get a new lawn

Whilst some people find turf installation to be a straightforward job – especially with our easy-to-follow Laying Turf how to guides and videos – others just don’t have the time. If you want a new lawn without the hassles of all the measuring, preparing the ground, spreading underlay and laying turf, Lawn Solutions Australia can help. Depending on where you live, our fully accredited turf growers can take care of everything for you:

  • Measure your garden
  • Advise on the right grass type for your location and your garden’s particular conditions
  • Provide a quote for turf, plus premium quality turf underlay if required
  • Organise delivery for a day that suits you
  • Spread the turf underlay and a water-saving starter fertiliser
  • Lay the turf
  • Cut the turf exactly to the shape of your lawn and around your garden beds
  • Advise you on immediate and long term aftercare
  • Provide a 10 Year Lawn Warranty – the only of its kind in Australia. This is only offered on purchases from accredited Lawn Solutions Australia turf suppliers.

Talk to your local grower about their turf laying services

If that sounds like the lawn solution for you, get in touch with your local Lawn Solutions Australia grower to ask about their turf installation and laying services in your area, and look forward to a lush new lawn without the hassle! With 40+ leading turf growers across Australia, our expert lawn professionals are only a phone call or email away.

Improving Soil Structure with Gypsum for a Lush Lawn

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How gypsum helps improve soil structure

Gypsum is a soft white-grey mineral known as a ‘clay breaker’ because it helps to improve the physical condition of heavy clay soils. In layman’s terms, if you look at compacted soils under a microscope they look like a jar full of sand. If you mix gypsum with the soils it will then look like a jar full of marbles, with air pockets around them. The result of this occurring is to allow better water and root penetration. Root development and the intake of other essential nutrients are assisted as well by the calcium content of gypsum.

How to use gypsum to improve your lawn

As a rule, gypsum is best cultivated and mixed into clay or heavy soils prior to laying turf or adding turf underlay. If you have an existing lawn that is suffering from compaction, using gypsum will also help relieve compaction in most clay or heavy soils. First aerate the lawn, then spread 1-2kg/m2 of gypsum over the lawn and rake in. If you’re unable to aerate the lawn first, water the gypsum in heavily once spread. Remember good soil structure will give you a great lawn. If you want more advice, get in touch with your local Lawn Solutions Australia member.

Gypsum for Lawn Soil Structure

The Cost of Turf Compared To Other Groundcovers

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The cost of turf per square metre

The median cost of turf per square metre is $28.48, which is approximately a quarter of the cost of the next cheapest alternative, concrete. This table shows the median costs per square metre of various groundcovers, such as turf, concrete, pavers and planting, which makes it very clear what great value turf is. The fact that a newly turfed lawn invariably increases your property’s visual appeal and value makes it an obvious choice for landscapers and homeowners alike.

Surface Median cost (m2)
Natural Turf $28.48
Synthetic Grass $168.00
Pavers $180.00
Sandstone $218.50
Concrete $115.50
Mass Garden Planting $139.90

These figures are based on data from the Landscape Association of NSW and include costs for site and surface preparation, underlay, supply and installation.

Contact your local accredited grower for a quote

Find your local Lawn Solutions Australia turf supplier to get expert advice on the right type of grass for your garden or landscaping project, and an accurate quote. Remember you only get a 10 Year Warranty when you buy turf from an accredited Lawn Solutions Australia grower or Lawn Solutions Centre.

Lawn Colourant – What It Is and How To Use It

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ColourGuard is actually a natural plant-based colourant that allows your lawn to remain green all year round, even during droughts and extreme temperatures.

Benefits of using ColourGuard

1. Restores the natural green colour of your lawn – instantly!
2. Drastically reduces the need to water your lawn in periods of drought
3. Stays green for up to 3 months per application
4. Won’t wash off, run or stain
5. Completely safe for the environment, pets and people
6. 100% eco-friendly and non-toxic

ColourGuard has been developed to give you the best lawn in the street on drought, frost affected or dormant grass. It instantly restores the natural colour of your grass while at the same time increases your grass health.

What is ColourGuard?

ColourGuard is a natural organic grass treatment product that strengthens and protects grass under extreme conditions and instantly restores the colour. ColourGuard is the best option to re-introduce a green pigment back into the natural grass blades.  This has been achieved through years of research, being proactive is key to healthy long living green lawn.

Colourguard

How to use ColourGuard

  1. Attach your hose to the 2 Litre Ready To Use bottle, or mix the 100ml concentrate with water in a pressure sprayer as per the bottle instructions.
  2. Spray evenly across your lawn, working from methodically from one side to another.
  3. When spraying near hard surfaces like paths and driveways, stand on the surface and spray the ColourGuard away from the surface onto your lawn.
  4. Leave your lawn to dry for at least 2 hours afterwards (if in full sunlight), or longer if it is shady.

Buy ColourGuard online

It’s easy to buy ColourGuard online direct from the Lawn Store, in two sizes:

colourguard plus 100ml colourguard plus RTU

Frequently asked questions about lawn painting

How long before we can walk on the lawn?

Once ColourGuard has dried on the grass leaf in most cases within 2 hours provided there is full sunlight that day.

Colourguard spray

What happens if it rains?

Once the application has set into your lawn it will not wash ColourGuard away or cause any unwanted affect.

Can I mow my lawn after ColourGuard application?

Yes.  Providing you don’t set the mower too low and scalp your lawn. ColourGuard is permanent and will disappear as the grass leaf grows. Mowing through winter is only to remove and clean up leaves and debris from your lawn.

Want a green lawn all year round? Lawn Solutions Australia now has the answer for you! Contact your local accredited turf supplier to find out more.

Lawn Paint

Lawn Seed – Why it’s a Bad Idea

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A great lawn requires great skill

All great Aussie lawns like Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo are what they call male sterile and cannot be grown from seed. Not even on the turf farm can they be grown from seed, they have to be grown from live vegetative material that takes a lot of skill from our Aussie turf farmers to turn into lawn turf. If an experienced turf producer can’t grow it from seed – what chance do we have?

Grass grown from seed struggles in hot weather

It is true that seed will grow into some sort of ground cover in the colder wetter climates of Australia, however it will not be a drought tolerant lawn for life. Usually it will be a cool season variety such as a seeded rye or fescue that may give a quick flush of green in a colder climate but once the hot weather comes along it can be gone forever.

Seed can be a budget option, but you will find that it takes a substantial amount of time and money to get the result you are after. You will be required to over sow a number of times and you still won’t be able to guarantee a successful strike rate and germination to get a nice consistent finish. With weather conditions potentially washing your seed away, birds and other animals also eating the seed, it can be a significantly challenging process to undertake.

See the difference for yourself

A good test if you’re still not convinced is to ask both your local LSA turf supplier and your seed supplier to show you a couple of front lawns they have supplied in your local area that are 5 years or older. You will be amazed at how few are grown from seed.

The most effective way of establishing a great lawn is by installing instant turf. By doing so, you are putting in what is already a healthy established grass and planting it ready to go at your own home. Within a few weeks the rolls will have established together and you will have a consistent healthy lawn.

Want a lawn for life?

So if you want a great long lasting Aussie lawn get in touch with your nearest Lawn Solutions Australia grower and get a great lawn for life. Remember only turf purchased through our growers or Lawn Solutions Centres come with our 10 Year Warranty! Grass Seed – Why its a bad idea

Lawn Mowing – Getting The Basics Right

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Tip #1. Mow at the right height for your grass type

The proper height for mowing your lawn depends on your grass variety, season and growing conditions. Below is a rough guide for the correct mowing heights for the major different varieties of lawn grass:

Grass Variety Lawn Mowing Height
Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo Grass 30-50mm
Sir Grange Zoysia Grass 10-50mm
TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda Grass 10-30mm
Eureka Kikuyu Grass 30-50mm
Platinum Zoysia Grass 20-30mm

Tip #2: Don’t mow your lawn too short

Don’t mow your lawn too short, as this can put your lawn under extreme stress. It can leave brown or bare looking patches on your lawn, and if cut too short regularly, can seriously deplete the lawn’s energy reserves and is an open invitation for weeds to invade and seed.

Tip #3: Reduce mowing height gradually

If your lawn is overgrown, gradually reduce it to the correct height over a few mows. Avoid taking too much off the leaf blade in one go as this can stress the grass and it may require additional irrigation to recover. Taking no more than one-third of the blade length each mow is a good general rule.

Tip #4: Mow your lawn regularly

Avoid long periods between mows – regular mowing is best. Keep in mind that your mowing routine may also need to change with the seasons. Sir Walter DNA Certified, for example, loves hot summers and will have vigorous growth during this time.

Tip #5: Keep your lawn mower blades sharp

Keep your mower well maintained; shape blades are crucial for a good cut. Blunt blades tend to tear, rather than cut the lawn.

Fertilising Your Lawn

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Fertilising your lawn in Spring

Spring is an important time to fertilise, as your lawn breaks the winter dormancy. Your fertiliser application will assist the lawn to jump into growth as the weather warms up.

fertilise

Fertilising your lawn in Summer

Summer fertilising helps your lawn maintain an even growth pattern. Most fertilisers have added minor nutrients, which work to give your lawn the correct balance of nutritional requirements to make you the envy of the street.

Fertilising your lawn in Autumn

Autumn fertilising prepares your lawn for the winter months. It encourages prolonged growth to ensure a thick coverage and extended colour. This application is the most important one of the year.

autumn lawn

Soil types and lawn fertilisers

Everybody has different soil types and lawn fertilisers will work differently! In sandy soil fertilisers will leach very quickly, hence more applications to do the job. In a heavy clay soil your lawn fertiliser will last longer because of moister retention and slower water movement.

lawn fertiliser

All lawn fertilisers work differently

Just to point out – all lawn fertilisers work differently, some require heaps of water when applied and give surge growth to your lawn, others are controlled release and require minimal water and work evenly over a longer period – they are my favourite!

Fertilising lawn

What’s the best lawn fertiliser to use?

There are many types of lawn fertiliser available in the market – organic, chemically blended, slow release, liquids just to name a few – but my pick is Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser and here’s why: We like to apply a product that will spread easily and evenly, has low to no odour, requires minimal water, doesn’t make my lawn grow crazy overnight and gives even growth for an extended period of time. This fertiliser will keep your lawn in tiptop shape all year round.

lawn solutions fertiliser

Packed with both fast and slow-release granules with essential nutrients and trace elements to encourage strong growth and rich colour. Ideal for Sir Walter DNA Certified, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, Sir Grange Zoysia, Zoysia Australis, Eureka Kikuyu, and all other lawn types. Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is ideal for home lawns, sports fields, and golf courses.

If you want to have the best lawn try the proven fertiliser that is the popular choice for lawn lovers! Buy Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser from the Lawn Store, or from your local accredited turf supplier.

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